Diamond
DIAMONDS: The 4 Cs
A SHOPPER'S GUIDE
FOR YOUR DIAMOND RING PURCHASE
This year millions of consumers will spend their hard earned dollars on diamond jewelry. To help you become aware of what you should know about diamond buying, we will talk about the "Four Cs." What are the "Four Cs," what do they mean?
The four Cs are important contributing factors in relation to price or value of a diamond and refer to Cut, Color, Clarity, and Carat weight.
Cut
Cut refers to symmetry or how well a diamond is proportioned during the cutting process. Most consumers are under the impression that Cut refers to the actual shape of the diamond, not so. Later on we will discuss different shapes.
Without getting too boring, symmetry refers specific angles, percentages and diameters that contribute to a diamonds beauty and rarity. There are many diamonds in the market for consumers to select from. Only a handful is referred to as "Ideal Cut." There are many gemological organizations, gemologists and jewelers that have their own preferences for what is "Ideal Cut." Some may say that the "ideal" table percentage of a round diamond should be 55% while others say 58% or 60%. Realistically speaking, the average consumer will find it very difficult to discern the subtle differences. There are specific formulas for cutting diamonds for maximum brilliance and fire. Unfortunately, most diamonds are cut to maintain a specific weight and not for "ideal" proportions. For this reason, well-cut diamonds command a premium price.
Symmetry can be one of the most difficult factors to become familiar with when shopping for that special diamond. For most consumers, symmetry is not a major concern when contemplating a diamond purchase. Most consumers are concerned with price and a specific shape and sometimes over-pay for a poorly cut diamond. Ask about symmetry when shopping for your special diamond. Is the diamond well cut or is it too deep or too shallow? All are very fair questions when contemplating your purchase. Remember, the only silly questions are the ones you don't ask.
The most common of diamond shapes are Round, Marquise, Pear, Oval, Emerald, and Princess cut. Traditionally speaking, the most popular is the Round brilliant. The most costly is typically the Marquise cut. One of the reasons for the Marquise costing more is the loss of weight during the cutting process. In the diamond business, the name of the game is weight retention; more weight retained during cutting process translates to a higher yield on the investment. The Marquise will typically cost 12% to 15% more than the traditional round brilliant. Another popular cut is the Princess cut diamond.
round
|
marquis
|
princess
|
pear
|
oval
|
heart
|
radiant
|
emerald
|
trillion
|
The last few seasons have experienced a significant demand for the exotic Princess cut. The Princess is a very brilliant, vibrant cut diamond as well as an excellent alternative to the traditional round brilliant.
Color
Diamonds are available in a range of colors. The general rule is, the whiter or higher the color, the more costly the diamond. As the color of a diamond gradually turns to shades of yellow or brown, the least costly the diamond. Diamond colors are graded on a scale developed over 60 years ago by the Gemological Institute of America, or better known as G.I.A. G.I.A. has been described as the policing authority of the international gem and jewelry industry. For numerous years the institution has exemplified integrity, ethics, and professionalism second to none. The Gemological Institute of America has produced generations Graduate Gemologists adhering to the aforementioned standards.
Color grades begin at one end of the spectrum as "Colorless" and continue to the other end of the spectrum with colors termed as "Fancy Yellow." (Please refer to Color chart provided below.)
GIA Color Chart
D |
E |
F |
G |
H |
I |
J |
K |
L |
M |
N |
O |
P |
Q |
R |
S |
T |
U |
V |
W |
X |
Colorless
(Collection Color) |
Near Colorless
(White) |
Faint Yellow
(Top Silver) |
Very Light or
Light Yellow |
Fancy Yellow --> |
Clarity
Clarity refers to the purity of a diamond. Naturally occurring "clarity characteristics" are described as "blemishes and inclusions." Blemishes pertain to scratches; chips or small nicks confined to the exterior of the diamond and may be removed by minor re-polishing. Inclusions are internal characteristics that include: breaks, fractures or distortions within the crystal structure.
Not all inclusions are naturally occurring, some are man-made. Special laser drills are often used to enhance the clarity characteristics of a diamond. For instance, a diamond may contain an unsightly large, dark mineral deposit and is an ideal candidate for drilling. I am told that after drilling, the diamond is then boiled in acid to remove remnants of the inclusion. The results are as if the dark inclusion were never there. Instead of an unsightly dark inclusion, the diamond is left with a barely distinguishable tiny drill hole. Although the laser process may be widely used, most consumers are never informed of laser treated diamonds. It is my understanding that the Federal Trade Commission is wavering on whether or not by law; the treatment should be disclosed to the consumer. Some argue that nothing has been added to the diamond; therefore no disclosure is necessary. Others in the industry feel while nothing has been added to the diamond, an unnatural characteristic has been added to the diamond; a laser drill hole. The argument is that the diamond has been altered and is no longer in its natural state.
To the average person, color differences may seem minor and barely distinguishable. To the trained eye, the differences may be obvious as well as somewhat subjective. (Please refer to the Clarity chart provided below.)
GIA Clarity Grading Chart
Flawless |
VVS1 VVS2 |
VS1 VS2 |
SI1 SI2 |
I1 I2 I3 |
No Inclusions at
10x Magnification |
Very, Very
Slightly Included |
Very Slightly
Included |
Slightly
Included |
Imperfect
Eye Visible |
Carat Weight
A Carat is a unit of measurement used to describe the weight of a diamond. Each carat (1.00 ct.) consists of 100 smaller units called points; one carat is equal to 100 points. Points may also be described as a unit of measurement in fractions of a carat. For example: A 3/4 carat diamond is equal to 0.75 points, 1/2 a carat is equal to 0.50 points, a 1/4 is equal to 0.25 points and so on. Carat weight is also a very important factor in determining the value of a diamond. Consider the fact that for every 3 tons of earth mined, approximately five carats of diamond weight are recovered. Of the five carats recovered, only a total of one carat's worth is of gem quality. Within the one-carat yielded, there may be several smaller sizes and not necessarily one single stone weighing one carat. With such minor yields and enormous mining costs, perhaps it is easier to understand why diamonds are indeed so precious, rare and costly.
When a consumer purchases a diamond at the retail level, the diamond is sold per piece. Relatively speaking, the diamond is priced according to the weight. All things being equal, the more a diamond weighs, the higher the price. Wholesale, diamonds are sold by carat weight. Diamond dealers haggle about the price per carat when purchasing at market. Ultimately, a per carat price is negotiated for the diamond or diamonds, and then the diamonds are sold to the consumer.
In conclusion, remember the following two points. Compare shop and ask a lot of questions. First, it is very important to compare apples to apples. In other words, make sure the color and clarity comparisons are alike. When asking about Color and Clarity for a specific diamond, have the salesperson describe your prospective diamond in G.I.A. terminology. If the salesperson cannot describe the diamond in G.I.A. terms, you are better off shopping elsewhere. Second, be assertive; ask all the questions you feel necessary. It is my opinion, that at a very minimum, the establishment you are shopping at should have a gemologist on staff. Some retailers will boast that they have been in business for generations and have succeeded just fine without a gemologist. My reply to that response is, "Just because you have done something for generations doesn't necessarily mean you've been doing it right."
The bottom line is, everyone has a budget. Shop wisely, now your limits and expect only what your budget allows. Don't go shopping for a "Luxury Car" only expecting to pay for a "Compact." "Remember, you get what you pay for!"
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